HOW TO GET THE MOST FROM YOUR DEEPER SONAR

A bold statement: every aspiring or serious carp angler should own a Deeper sonar unit.

For those who don’t know, Deeper products are sonar devices that can be cast from shore and pair with an app on your smartphone to display depth, bottom make-up, weeds, structure, and even individual fish. Deeper, who are based in Lithuania but distribute their products worldwide, pioneered the technology and have been improving the tech and materials used in the units for more than a decade.

It’s a simple concept. You attach the device to your line and cast out. As soon as the unit touches water it will begin to send information back to the app for display on your phone. You can bungee your phone horizontally to the handle of your rod for viewing, hold in your hand, or mount on a tripod. As you slowly reel the device towards you, a dynamic left to right display shows all the bottom contours and other useful information throughout the length of the retrieve.
 
If you line up your cast with a marker on the far bank and assess how far you cast it out, you now have the equivalent of an underwater map for this slice of water. If you find something promising - 30 feet out, there’s a distinct shelf from 12 ft down to 15 ft with light weed growth - you can stand in that swim at any subsequent point and be confident of putting your hookbait and free offerings in a high-potential spot.

If you sometimes use a kayak or other watercraft in your carp fishing for baiting-up or feature finding, there are attachments available so you can simply swim the Deeper alongside your boat rather than casting it out. Depending on which model you choose, Deeper’s come with a lot of other accessories and functionality, like lake mapping. It's a really indispensable and versatile bit of kit.

Illinois resident Chris Matthews, who has frequently graced the Angler’s Insider newsletter with blogs and catch photos, as well as two excellent chapters in volume four of The American Carper, is a Deeper enthusiast and ambassador. ACS reached out to him for a few more advanced tips on how to get the most from the product.

ACS: Tell us a little about your background and what attracted you to Deeper?
 
CM: I’m 39 years old and currently live in central Illinois. I moved to the US from Coventry, England twenty ago this year. I’ve been fishing pretty much since I’ve been able to walk as my dad always loved to fish. I’ve targeted carp exclusively since moving to the States and really going full blown at it since 2017. I’ve been using a Deeper for quite a few years and been part of the Deeper team since early 2023.
 
From a young age my dad always taught me the value of watercraft, trying to understand where the fish might be and why, paying close attention and letting the water tell you where they are.
 
I still put a lot of value in that aspect of fishing. Using a Deeper allows you to confirm your intuition and gives you eyes under the water to help tell the story of why they might be there and even more importantly, what might keep them returning to the same spot.
 
You can clear a lot of ground with a Deeper sonar and get an immense understanding of what is happening without having to cast and cast a marker rod. While marker rods are still valuable, I personally lean more heavily on the Deeper nowadays as it's so much more efficient.

ACS: What are the things you're hoping to see in a new area using your Deeper? What are the things that would make you move on?
 
CM: When fishing a new water, I’ll always throw my Deeper out to help me visualize what kind of water I am setting up in, sometimes that means walking around the bank at first and casting out to potential areas where I believe fish will be.
 
I’m primarily looking to understand the topography of the water and to find clear and hard spots so my rig can present well on the bottom, not necessarily indications of individual fish. Hard areas show up as vivid color lines on the bottom ranging from yellow to red to orange. I’m also really looking for clues as to why a carp may feed in a certain area: deeper, cooler water in the hot summer months, a marginal or midrange shelf, small humps and plateaus, small depressions in the lakebed, weedbeds, other structure that might offer the fish protection or comfort.
 
On the other hand, if the swim is just too snaggy or weedy based on readings from my unit, I’ll move on to a new area. While it’s nice hooking fish, if you’re ultimately going to lose the majority of them to hidden snags it’s not worth your time and money and more importantly, the fish’s safety.

ACS: Any tips or tricks for getting the most out of the system if you’re new to it?
 
CM: The first thing I suggest is to turn off the fish icons! As a beginner, you can get too caught up seeing fish icons while not truly understanding what you are looking at and misinterpreting the data.
 
My standard settings are raw mode, the daytime palette (icon looks like the sun), and turn off fish icons. If fish are in the swim, they’ll still register but as red arcs of various sizes hovering off bottom. Generally the thicker the red arc the bigger the fish.
 
Reel slowly. You never want to reel your Deeper in fast - slow and steady gives the unit a chance to work to its full capacity and you a chance to take notice of every nook and cranny between the unit and your spot on the bank.
 
I adjust the sensitivity of the display according to the water I’m fishing. For most places, keeping the sensitivity between 60 and 80 helps clear out the clutter and gives a clean display.
 
You can also adjust the beam width of the unit, meaning how wide of an area below the unit is being picked up. Don’t assume what’s displayed on the app is just what’s directly below the unit - it’s more like a cone spreading out, especially over deep water. I’ll typically start off with a wide beam to get a good understanding of what’s below me, then narrow the beam width to focus on areas I really want to fish.

I use my Deeper primarily with a spod rod, though they’re light enough that any carp rod could  easily handle one. Unless you’re in a boat, make sure the Deeper is set to bank fishing and tie to the top or middle mount on the unit.
 
I’ve found holding my phone works well while reeling the unit back in, but you can also buy a custom strap from Deeper that very securely fixes your phone horizontally to your rod. The strap allows you to keep a steadying thumb on the phone as you cast and then you can just slowly reel in with your other hand as you look down at the display. The best approach though or the one to use if you’re really paranoid about dropping or dunking your phone, is to mount your phone on a separate tripod and set it as high as you can to keep the signal strong.
 
Deeper comes in three models: the Start, the PRO +, and the CHIRP 2, and range in price from $89 to $249.

The American Carp Society is the USA’s leading authority on catch and release trophy carp angling. It is a membership based organization, dedicated to furthering the sport by educating the public on stewardship and conservation of our natural resources. By becoming a member you are supporting our efforts in helping to promote this incredible species to other anglers in the USA.

UNDERSTANDING CARP LEADERS

Understanding Carp Leaders


When you start chasing any new species of fish, keeping things as simple as you can can pay off well. For example, when starting to fish for trout most anglers use a standard 9 foot monofilament leader, which can get them through most situations that they encounter when taking their first steps. Then as you grow into the game, and start learning different aspects of fly fishing, most anglers at the very least start experimenting with different lengths of leaders, and whether they are fluorocarbon or monofilament.

I can see the same thing happening with carp fly angling, seemingly at a bigger scale, meaning that a lot of discussion about the gear used to target carp is simplified to the lowest common denominator. Whereas in other aspects of fly fishing, you have entire books and magazines devoted to dissecting leader formulas, but a fish like the carp, with its myriad feeding habits and behaviors, is usually lumped into “a nine foot 2x leader works all the time”. Point being, carp deserve a bit more of an in-depth dive into what leaders work best for specific situations. While this isn’t a full on “going down the rabbit hole” discussion, it’s a good starting off point to cover the basics and the situations in which you might use them.

Fluorocarbon or Monofilament

The age old question: should you use mono, or fluoro? And the answer will depend greatly on your fishery and time of year. For surface feeding fish, I tend to tie up my leaders with mostly mono, as it floats better than fluoro, which sinks. If you want to have a high riding dry fly, keep that leader mono all the way to the fly, but for flies that sit in the surface film, or just below it, I’ll add a section of 2-3 feet of fluoro as the terminal tippet, which sinks the section just before the fly, making less surface disturbance and giving the fly the action you want.

For most sub-surface feeding situations, I am running a 100% fluoro leader, tapered down from 40lb to 8-10lb, from 10-25 ft long depending on the situation. Fluoro sinks, so you tend to have a better connection with a sinking fly, and ironically some of the cheaper fluoro is more abrasion resistant than the expensive stuff. For peace of mind, and to be a better friend to your wallet, buy big spools of Seaguar Basix, which is usually from $9-12 for a large 200yrd spool. I carry spools of 20, 15, 10 and 8lb on me, and that way I can adjust my leader for most situations.

Length of Leader

The most common change you’ll make to your leader when you’re out on the water is the length of it. For short casts in heavy cover, a leader as short as 6-7ft can come in handy, while when you’re dry fly fishing and making longer casts, I often run leaders up to 25 ft long, to aid in a soft turnover and to allow me to pick out specific fish without lining others.

When fishing in heavy cover, around a lot of brush and trees, you can get away with a straight section of 4-6 feet of 15-20 lb fluoro, and I use fluoro around the brush since it's more abrasion resistant than mono in those situations. Running a straight leader also means no knots, and no knots between sections to get caught on brush and weeds is a good thing. Since you won’t be doing much casting, you don’t need the leader to turn over as smoothly, in heavy cover most of your casts are dapping or just really short drag and drop style presentations.

On the flats, when fishing to tailing fish in a bit more open water, I like to have a 12-20ft leader, usually made up of sections of 3 feet increments of 40lb, 20lb, 15lb, 10lb, finishing off with a longer 4-5 foot section of 8lb, which can be trimmed back or cut back a section if you need a heftier tippet, or shorter leader. You can lengthen the back section for a softer landing, or shorten it up for heavier flies. But I like the longer leader as it allows me to drop my fly into the water further from the fish, as well as picking out my target fish through a group of fish without lining them with the fly line itself.

For dry fly fishing, I run a similar leader to the flats style leaders, but I lengthen the butt section for a little smoother landing, and tend to keep my leaders in the 20-25 ft lengths, as it again lets me pick out fish from big groups of carp feeding up top. Surface feeding carp can be quite spooky as well, so the longer leader helps spook less fish, which is always a plus in my book.

Tie it Together

You may have noticed I didn’t bring up store bought leaders, which are completely fine as a fishing tool, I just prefer to customize my own, giving you more versatility on the water. None of these are hard and set rules, but more a platform for you to play with in your own scenarios on the water. The awesome thing about fly fishing for carp, is how varied the fishing can be for them, even just within the same watershed, so a standard “one size fits all” approach to your leader setup will probably hold you back in advancing in your carp on the fly adventures.

And to bring back some simplicity, don’t jump from a 9 ft standard trout leader to a 25 ft dry fly carp leader, casting a leader that is longer than you can handle won’t help you, it’ll get in your way. Work your way into longer leaders incrementally, and just lengthen by a foot or two each time. Your leader is there to help you, make it work for you, and see the results on the water!

PROVEN TIPS FOR TAKING BETTER CARP PHOTOS

Proven Tips for Taking Better Carp Photos


Many ACS members are excellent photographers and we regularly see exceptional examples of carp imagery, turning catches and moments on the bank into everlasting memories. If you aren’t quite there yet and you’d like to level-up your skills, here are a few tips to help you improve.

Choosing the Right Equipment

If you want to take the leap and purchase a dedicated camera, Canon's Rebel series or Sony’s Alpha range are excellent starting points. New camera models are now nearly all mirrorless as a default, which means smaller, lighter cameras with no loss in picture quality. As you become more confident, these cameras allow you to switch between fully automatic and manual modes for greater control over your images.

Modern smartphones are also remarkably capable. Being fully automatic, they allow you to concentrate on lighting and composition. A scroll through the ACS instagram page will show you just how amazing some of these phone-captured images can be.

Mastering Lighting and Weather Conditions

Good photography is all about assessing light. The Golden Hour - that magical time shortly after sunrise or before sunset - is the photographer’s best friend, offering soft, warm lighting for your carp captures. Overcast days can provide a natural diffuser, eliminating harsh shadows and evenly lighting your subject, but don’t forget to include some color. In harsh sunlight, angle yourself to avoid glare and shadows and use a polarizing filter.

Composition and Angles

Composition truly elevates a photo from good to great. The rule of thirds, where the image is divided into nine equal segments, is a staple for pleasing composition. Place your subjects along the lines or intersections for balance (many cameras have a feature that will overlay a grid onto the image to help you position it). Look out for things like stray plastic bags on the ground or branches in the background that distract from a clean shot.

Try different angles and think about the moment you’re trying to capture: a glimpse of water in the background frames a shot much better than a parking lot or muddy bank.

Capturing the Moment

The moment a big carp is hooked or landed is filled with energy and excitement - ideal for dynamic shots. Fast shutter speeds can help freeze the action. If you’re using a smartphone, the burst mode will give you multiple shots to choose from. Good carp care will ensure your catch is presented in pristine condition.

Post-Processing Tips

Post-processing allows you to correct issues and enhance features in your photos. Even simple adjustments like tweaking the contrast, brightness, or cropping can greatly improve an image.

Photography, much like fishing, rewards patience, practice, and passion. Use these tips as a starting point and let your creativity shine through the lens.  And don’t forget, ACS members can enter their best carp pics in our photography competition for some great prizes!

CHANNELING YOUR INNER FLY CARPIN DETECTIVE

Channeling Your Inner Fly Carpin’ Detective


Finding carp to catch on the fly in a big lake can seem like a daunting task. As a fly angler, the fish won’t smell or sense your fly, and won’t hunt it down. You need to put the fly in their path, and hope you matched what they were feeding on well enough that they decide to take a bite out of your offering. So with that in mind, that we are sight fishing, you need to narrow down the areas in which you might find the fish, since very likely, you are not going to be able to cover every square inch of the lake in a day, not to mention that carp tend to move around a lot, so staying on top of their movements is very important. So turn on some English detective dramas (there’s around 3000 to choose from), learn some detective skills, and get out there and start sleuthing.

Wind

Finding carp in a big lake can be tough, there’s lots of water and lots of feeding areas, and you can spend a lot of time searching for fish. Utilizing a few different factors, you can help yourself by narrowing down the areas to focus on. Wind is one of the biggest factors that can help you find fish, since it influences all the following factors. The windward side will have warmer water, especially in winter/early spring. It brings food, whether that be suspending midges or plankton that feeds the prey items carp eat, or because it stirs up the bottom, making nymphs, worms and other food items available to the carp. If you’re just starting to approach a certain body of water for carp, look at some wind forecasts, and not just for the day you’re out there, but what the previous few days wind was like.

Temperature

Influenced by wind, but especially early and late season, and all throughout winter, you should definitely be taking the temperature of the water. With the exception of the heat of summer, carp will search out the warmest portion of any given piece of water, and understanding how the water temperature changes throughout the day can greatly influence your success on the water. Dark bottoms will warm faster, south facing shorelines warm up before north facing ones, and a warmer flat near deep water will always be juicy early in the season. River inlets can provide cooler water, which can be a negative in early season, but a positive in the dog days of summer. You don’t need to become a meteorologist, but understanding how the temperature differs in various parts of a lake is essential to be an effective carp angler.

Find the Food

Sounds obvious, but do some research on what prey items exist in the areas you plan on fishing, and not just have flies that imitate that, but understand how these prey items live and move in a way that can affect how the carp move. If the main forage is clams, you might want to focus on gravel bars, if the main forage is midges, find the eddies created by the wind that collect midge clusters. Knowing how wind and temperature affect these food items for carp, will help you locate the fish.

Spotting Fish

This might sound cliche, but the key to seeing carp in water is not to look for the carp, look at the bottom and then notice things that aren’t the bottom. But first, to the unsexy stuff - move slowly. I cannot stress enough how slowly you need to walk to see all that the feeding areas have to offer. Most people think they are moving slow enough when they need to be moving at least three times slower. To see the fish, you need to not scare them, at least if you want to catch them. Become a part of the environment around you, if it’s flatland, crouch a bit so you don’t stand out like bigfoot in a desert, if the shoreline has trees and bushes, use those to your advantage. There’s a delicate balance in finding good footing while also keeping an eye on the carp. Make sure you have a good solid footstep - no twigs or loose rocks underneath your foot - before stepping down with your other foot.

Keeping a Journal

A step a lot of anglers don’t take is to journal down the conditions after every day of fishing, but it is an important one to see the patterns in behavior. It doesn’t need to be super complicated, but jot down the moon phase, the wind direction, water temperature, daily high and low temps, and where you found fish and how they were behaving. After a while of noting these details, you’ll see some patterns as to where the fish are feeding in what conditions, and how they react to things like moon phases, wind direction and cold snaps. This will help you clue in on where to fish not only in your body of water, but when you check out a new lake or river, will help you narrow down where to start.

Director of Fly Education

DAGUR ARNI GUOMUNDSSON

HOW TO CATCH REALLY BIG CARP.

How to Catch Really Big Carp


Catching a carp over 40 pounds is the dream of every carp angler. These majestic fish require not only patience and skill but also a strategic approach to baiting and tackle selection. To elevate your carp fishing game and increase your chances of landing a monster carp, follow these essential pieces of advice from The American Carp Society (ACS) on boilies, pre-baiting, and sound tackle.

Boilies: The Right Choice for Big Carp
 
Boilies are a staple in carp fishing for good reason. When targeting carp over 40 pounds, selecting high-quality, nutrient-rich boilies is a proven difference-maker. These fish have grown big by being efficient feeders, so your bait needs to offer them what they need. Try boilies with flavors and scents that mimic natural food sources in the water you're fishing, or opt for proven flavors. Size matters too: larger boilies (20mm or more) can help deter smaller carp and appeal to  bigger, more cautious fish.

Prebaiting: Building Confidence
 
Prebaiting is a tactic that can significantly increase your chances of success. By regularly introducing boilies into your chosen fishing spot a few days before your session, you build a sense of safety around your bait. Many carpers recommend three prebaiting sessions before starting to fish, but any number is better than none. This strategy encourages carp to feed more confidently when it's time to fish. However, towards the end of a baiting campaign, moderation becomes a factor. You want to attract the fish and stimulate their appetite without overfeeding them.

Sound Tackle: The Foundation of Success
 
The right tackle is your link to the fish, and when targeting specimens over 40 pounds, you can't afford to compromise on quality. Your rod and reel must be capable of handling the speed and strength of a large carp: there isn’t much in US freshwater to compare to a determined carp run from a big fish. Choose a strong, abrasion-resistant line, and ensure your hook is sharp and of a size suitable for large boilies and big mouths. A well-constructed rig that minimizes the chances of tangling or breaking is essential for presenting your bait effectively and playing big fish successfully. The Cyprinology section of the ACS website has lots more information about boilies, prebaiting strategies, and rigs.

Landing a carp over 40 pounds is the ultimate challenge and the ultimate reward in carp fishing. By choosing the right boilies, committing to a prebaiting schedule, and ensuring your tackle is up to the task, you greatly increase your chances of success.